Kassala

Fuul mashed fava beans is the main dish found in Kassala, and there are lots of fuul stalls around. The best ones are between the Souq an-Niswaan and Hotel Hipton, where the fuul is mixed with ta'amiya, cheese, tuna or egg, and topped with sesame oil, garlic and a herb called shumaar.

At-Tabaq as-Souri on the main square is a good place for sandwiches and shawarma. They also serve baklava and other sweets, and is one of the only cafes in Kassala where local women eat.

For more local dishes, like tagaliya and bamiya both gloopy okra-based sauces served with ghuraasa a spongy pancake type bread or kisra very thin, slightly sour bread, and various bits of meat ask for shiyya if you aren't keen on offal, try some of the restaurants in the middle of the souq.

On the road to Khatmiya, the bus passes a livestock market opposite a large cemetery. Here, there are stalls selling sheep, which are slaughtered to order and cooked in the restaurant next door.